A couple of months ago I bought an Ehrilch Canadian on eBay and left it off to the side waiting for the summer temps to drop to be able to work in the garage at my bench. Now that we are back down to the 80’s I decided to get it done. It got a good ream, followed by a good retort before starting on the real work.
It took about six times with new ever clear each time to get it to come out clear. I then used several clean pipe cleaners to make sure I got all I could out. Once satisfied that it was clean I then put the stem into an Oxyclean bath to loosen up the oxidization.
Next it was time to get into the sanding of the stem to bring it back. Using the micro sanding sponges I wet sanded from 1200-6000 grit and finished by moving through the range to the 12000 sponge and finishing up with Brebbia’s pipe and stem polish.
The bowl was in good shape. After a salt and alcohol bath I used everclear and several makeup pads to wipe down the bowl and assess the color to use. I wanted to stay true to the original brown, so using Fibbing’s Leather Dye in the Dark Brown color, it got several coats that was flamed to set each time. Once satisfied with the color it was on to the buffer to complete the look.
It’s a little bit hard to date this pipe. In looking a pipephil.com and pipedia.com I wound up more confused than educated. The stem is stamped with the E in a circle and just the name Ehrlich on the left side of the shank. Having seen a number of them in the forums I wanted to make sure to do this one proud!
Thanks for looking.
This is my latest eBay buy.
You can see that this is in need of more of a good cleaning than a reserection. The bowl is in good shape and the stem, while very oxidized, has no major dents or scrapes and the emblem is in good shape as well.
First up was to ream the bowl and give it an alcohol cleaning with pipe cleaners and Everclear. The stem I inspected and covered the logo with Vaseline to soak in an Oxyclean / water solution to loosen the oxidation. The next step was to immerse the bowl in isopropyl alcohol and let it soak for a couple of hours. When I took it out it went into a rice container to help dry it. The rice will pull out the moisture and dry it nicely. This is a trick electronics techs use when they get wet and you want to make sure it is dry before you power it up. Good to know if you drop a cell phone in water. When doing a salt and alcohol bath the rice also allows me to sit the bowl at the best angle to maximize the alcohol and not have it leak out.
The next several pictures show the progress on the stem, bringing it back to a nice shine. Starting with 220 grit flexible sandpaper and moving through the entire range of sponges up to 12000 grit you can see the finish come back. I used care not to get too close to the logo and damage it. I needed to use the pick to clear out some stubborn tar out of the bit.
I was thinking how I might give this a nice contrast to go with the finish contrast. I used the sanding sponges on the smooth areas that have geometric shapes. On the rusticated area I went with Black leather dye. I have long admired this combination in a number of pipe makers offerings. I still need to work on my technique to get the lines cleaner.
As I continue to learn more and more via experience I am encouraged by reading the blogs of Steve Laug and Upshallfan to see how veterans approach their work. A contributor to Reborn Pipes, Troy, has shown that you can be daring in reworking a pipe and get great results. Thanks to you all for the fine work you post.
The first thing I need to say is –
“Put the knife down and step away from the pipe!!”
I got this on eBay recently and was dubious of the buy but got it cheap enough. It has a stem with the letters BC in a plastic / lexan insert in it. In looking up the BC it resembles the Butz – Choquin style. The fit is good and it has a 9mm filter inside. The nomenclature on the pipe is in good shape and says Peterson XL90s on the right and Shamrock filter on the left. The stem had a very rough texture to it, like it had been sand blasted. It wasn’t scratched as in sanding, just raised material that was very dull in color.
The reason for the first comment was that a prior owner had left knife marks in the cake. A reamer was a foreign tool to the pipe. The front of the bowl is now thinner than the rest and showed sign as if it had been burned / charred like a hot spot would leave behind. Once I reamed it I verified it was scorched. There is also a small gouge in the front of the bowl as well from the knife. It seems that the knife assassin would only clean the cake from the front half of the bowl causing the damage.
Using the Castleford reamer I began with the third largest size and then the largest to clean the balance of the cake out. The front wall of the bowl has a dime size scorch mark that does not seem to extend too deep. So I am going to leave it alone at this time. While I was reaming and cleaning the bowl I put the stem into a Oxyclean bath to clean it. In the shank of the bowl the tar was very thick so I gave the entire bowl a bath in alcohol overnight to loosen it up. This helped clear the tar out nicely but left the bowl bleached almost white. The stem was sanded with sponges of progressive grits from 1200 to 12000. It brought up the shine nicely.
In the top picture you can see the char mark in the bowl. I decided to top the bowl to minimize the back side gouge which looked as if someone used a file on it causing a drop in the rim. Using a hard flat table top and some 120 grit sandpaper I took off a good bit of material and took a small scrap of used sandpaper to chamfer the inside edge. Afterwards I used the entire range of sanding sponges once again to go over the bowl prior to staining it. The back side of the rim was severely angled and I was not able to get the full cut out without taking the bowl depth down too much.
At first I was going to use a base of dark brown and lighten that up and go over it with ox blood. But, once I covered it with the brown and flamed it, the color was too rich to alter. It came out like old leather which is a weakness for me, so it was left alone.
At some point I will get the correct stem for it with the Peterson logo, but, for now it should function just fine.
A final request to all pipe smokers… If you need to clean a pipe and don’t have a reamer, PLEASE find a fellow piper that can help you save your pipe for many more years of good service!
In a batch of bowls I bought on eBay was this smooth Dr. Grabow Royal Duke.
I started this Reserection back in July, but kept getting sidetracked and not getting it done. The finish and bowl were in real good shape. There was only one small fill on it.
First thing was to ream it with my Castleford reamer starting with the smallest and working up till I was just touching the bare wood, not wanting to go into it. Next was to give it an alcohol bath inside and out to clean out the prior owners remnants.
After the dusting and cleaning I had to make a stem for it.
Using the PIMCO Tenon Tool I cut the stem down to get a close fit and hand sanded it the rest of the way to make it complete.
First using emory paper and then working throughout the micro sanding sponges from 1200 to 12000 grit. This stem had a very large diameter and had to be brought down with the Dremal tool to get to the right size. I have a LOT to learn about how to do this step correctly to maintain the flow of the lines. While this was a functional success it leaves a lot to be desired in the best form category. Practice should improve this part of my education.
After the alcohol bath I used Oxblood Red stain to restain the bowl. I flamed it to set it and then took it to the buffer to bring up the shine.
I would put this in the ugly pipe category but, it should smoke ok for a long time to come.
Recently I won a pair of Kaywoodie Bents on eBay. When they arrived they were in pretty good shape. Here is the first Reserection of the pair.
I gave it a light ream with my Castelford ream set followed by a nice alcohol cleaning and cleaned the rim with some saliva and alcohol. The stem had some chatter at the bit and I sanded it out with wet pads from 1200-4000 grit and dry sanded it through 12000 grit.
Using a black stain I redid the rusticated areas and then with a dark brown stain I went over the rest of the bowl. Lastly I gave it a ride on the buffing wheel and used some Brebbia Stem Polish on the stem to bring it back up.
Recently I bought a GBD New Standard 9442 on eBay in which the seller said had been “professionally” cleaned. The photos online looked ok and I bid on the pipe. Upon receipt I was disappointed in the condition. It would not even pass a pipe cleaner.
There was a lot of tar built up in the base of the pipe and the stem was plugged solid. I went through a number of pipe cleaners and cotton swabs to get it cleaned.
The stem had a couple of tooth marks and a crack in the bottom of the stem. Using the black super glue I tried to fill the tooth marks and repair the crack.
This is an area that I will need much more practice in before I can say it’s good. At this writing the repair I made are primitive but ok. I will continue to practice…
I soaked the stem in oxyclean and again in alcohol to get the deep oxidation loose. Then using wet sanding from the 1200 – 4000 micro pads and then going up to 12000.
Obsidian oil was used to make the final stem polish. Once it dried I took it to the wheel and buffed it.
A while ago I bought this Dublin shaped bowl from eBay. It was in good shape and just needed a stem and good cleaning for it to resume service.
The bowl did not have much cake built up like it was rarely used. So I just gave it a light brushing out and a course of salt and alcohol and pipe cleaners in the shank. There was a slight burn on the top which I wiped with alcohol and soft cloth. One thing it did have was a fine threaded insert in the shank. I removed it before I began to work on it.
I selected an oval stem to replace the missing one and turned it to fit with the PIMO tenon tool. I’m still trying to master this and believe I now have at least a basic understanding of it.
Once the stem was fit I added a little color to the bowl by using a Dark Brown stain to it. After applying the stain I flamed it to set it and then wiped it down with alcohol to get to the desired richness.
The grain of the bowl is very nice and I did not want to hide it. There are no visible fills or defects in it and has a great character to it.
I then polished the stem with sanding sponges beginning with the 1200 to 4000 grits with water and then dry sanding the 6000 to 12000 grits. I followed this with Brebbia’s Pipe and Stem Polish to get the shine up.
When the bowl was ready I took it to the wheel and polished it with white diamond and then wax, added the stem and was very happy with the results.
After I posted this it was suggested that I put a bend in the stem. I have not done this before and had to get the idea settled first. I did some research to see how to do it.
I went to the Reborn pipes blog and found the method to use and it worked very well.
I took the stem and inserted a pipe cleaner into it. I used my paint removing heat gun to heat the stem evenly.
After I heated the stem I used my bottle of everclear to roll the stem over it to get the shape.
I just put a slight bend in the stem.
Thanks to Steve at Reborn Pipes for the suggestion and instructions on how to get this done.
Today I am writing after reserecting a no name “Imported Briar” bowl that I won on eBay a couple of month ago. When this pipe came to me it had no stem. I see that the seller has decided to sell the bowls and the stems separately. This causes me some heartburn as I was able to get the bowls but no stems.
The bowl top was not too bad and neither was the cake inside.
The first thing I did was to ream the bowl with my Castleford reamer. It cleaned up quite easily. Next I topped the pipe by sanding it on a hard bench surface with 320 sandpaper. I saved the dust for use in filling any damaged areas in future reserections.
When I redid this pipe I used an Army style stem and hand made the tenon with a dremel and sanding drum combination and medium grit sanding cloth.
Next I sanded the stem with micro sanding pads from 1200 to 4800 grits.
Next I went through 6000 to 12000 grits to clean the rest of the stem and bring up the shine.
Once the stem was finished I rubbed it down with Brebbia’s Stem & Bowl cleaner and buffed it on the wheel with white diamond.
I was asked by a friend to see if I could clean his pipes. He had a Savinelli Punto Oro 611, Marmet Bent and a Hardcastle Poker.
The three pipes were in OK condition. They had a lot of cake built up and the stems were oxidized.
I reamed the three bowls with my Castleford reamer beginning with the smallest and moving slowly up to the largest.
All cleaned up pretty well but the stem of the Hardcastle Poker was stuck and I had to put it into the freezer for several days to get it out. When it came out it had cake buldup in the shank that had to come out. Each day I was able to move it a bit more and it came out on the third day.When it came out it had cake buildup in the shank that had to come out.
The rims on all of the pipes needed some kind attention to clean them and repair small marks up. Tar stains on the rims were heavy on both the Savinelli and the Hardcastle. I used alcohol on them with no result. I then used saliva to work into the rim and loosen up the tar. This work very well.
The Marmet and the Hardcastle had chips around the rims and I used Dark Brown and Black anilin dyes mixed 2:1. Just a touchup was needed. I did this with a Q tip.
The stems were first given a bath of Oxyclean then wet sanded with 1200 to 4000 grit sponges, and dry ended with sponges up to 12000 grit.
I failed to photograph the complete cleaning of the stems.
When the stems were sufficiently cleaned inside and out, I used Brebbia pipe and stem polish on the stems, then reunited them with their bowls. Next they were buffed on the wheel with beeswax and buffed finally with a soft cloth.
They are now ready to be enjoyed again for a long time!